Diner’s Journal - The New York Times Blog on Dining Out
July 13, 2009, 3:44 pm
Faceoff With Canada, but Not on Ice
By Julia Moskin
Ozier Muhammad/The New York Times A doughnut from Dunkin’ Donuts, left, goes head to head with one from Tim Hortons.
The Canadian mega-chain Tim Hortons, a kind of hybrid of Dunkin’ Donuts, McDonald’s and Howard Johnson’s, opened its first Manhattan outposts this morning, in 12 locations that had been Dunkin’ Donuts.
Tim Hortons doughnuts are freshly made at each location, so when the Dining staff gathered for a blind tasting of doughnuts from Dunkin’ Donuts and the newly arrived Tim Hortons, we expected to find traditional flavor in the box of upstarts. The results were more complicated.
We tasted five basic types side by side: plain cake, glazed yeast, Boston cream, chocolate frosted, and “French cruller” doughnuts. No sprinkles or jelly were included. (Sadly, some of the more intriguing Tim Hortons products were not available, like walnut crunch doughnuts, apple fritters and dutchies, made of yeast dough with raisins.)
Plain cake: Tasters admired the “pleasant nutmeg flavor” of the Dunkin’. The T.H. was deemed to have little taste and a tougher exterior.
Yeast glazed: The T.H. specimen was pale outside but had a more traditional yeast-raised, puffy texture. Both had an inoffensive white-bread flavor but nothing you’d wake up dreaming about.
Boston cream: Tasters much preferred the chocolate topping on the T.H. doughnut; otherwise, both were surprisingly good and surprisingly indistinguishable.
Chocolate frosted: Here Dunkin’ had a clear advantage: with its glossy brown exterior, it was much more appetizing than the T.H. The flavor, again, almost indistinguishable.
French cruller: Shaped into a fluted, twisted circle, the Dunkin’ version was simply a glazed doughnut with pleasant bumpy texture. The T.H. was made from an altogether different, eggy dough, like the choux pastry used for eclairs. Very sweet and rich-tasting.
Overall: Neither chain posted a clear winner or an overall advantage in quality. Conclusion: Mass-produced doughnuts are achieving total global mediocrity.