Toronto Star
This is a sad sad loss ~
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Truffles restaurant closing after 37 years
Aug 27, 2009 01:18 PM
Corey Mintz, Restaurant Critic
RENE JOHNSTON / TORONTO STAR
Michael Monette, 18 year employee at Truffles makes sure the wine glasses are spotless before dinner service. Truffles Restaurant at the Four Seasons Hotel is closing September 5th.
Truffles will shave its last tuber a week from tomorrow.
The restaurant that once epitomized luxury dining in Toronto will close its doors for good, the Toronto Four Seasons hotel has confirmed.
"The restaurant has experienced a slowdown in its business not just this year, but for the past several years," says Four Seasons executive Dimitrios Zarikos. "With the last economic downturn, it became just impossible to bear."
In its time, Truffles was a culinary leader, one of the priciest dining destinations in Toronto. It is featured on the resumés of many celebrity chefs, including Jonathan Gushue (Langdon Hall, Cambridge), Patrick Lin (Senses), Lynn Crawford (Four Seasons New York, Iron Chef), Tawfik Shehata (Vertical) and Jason McLeod (Elysian, in Chicago).
"When I was there, it was fantastic," says Philippe Grelet, who cooked at the Four Seasons from 1994 to 2001. "I was so proud of everything we did."
Grelet, executive chef of the CIBC executive dining room, still recalls with absolute clarity individual dishes, including wild boar with sweet potato gnocchi and slow poached capon breast covered in duxelles.
Truffles has been on the second floor of the Four Seasons since 1972, when the hotel opened at Bloor and Avenue Rd. Its signature dish - called black gold - reflected its name.
The dish is an elaborate arrangement of spaghettini surrounded by a sauce of reduced chicken stock, cream and truffle oil, drizzled with veal jus and a foamed truffle sauce and covered in black truffle shavings.
Black gold is no longer on the menu, but current chef Laurie Bandur will make it on request. What does it cost? The restaurant won't say.
The Four Seasons, which is building a new hotel at Bay and Scollard Sts., plans a more casual restaurant for its new location.
Whatever it is, it is unlikely to feature a dish called black gold. That well has run dry.
http://www.thestar.com/living/restaurants/article/687333