Bay takes its battle against Holts to Paris
Iconic retailer aims to boost high-end offerings as part of makeover
Mar 13, 2009 04:30 AM
Diana Zlomislic
Living Reporter
In the cobblestone alleys of Paris this week, one of Canada's stodgiest retailers launched a rearguard assault on an unlikely fashion rival.
The Bay's hit on Holt Renfrew has been months in the making.
"Hehehe," is the indecipherable sound emitted by Bonnie Brooks, the Bay's newish chief executive, when asked about her unit in Europe. "So you know we have a team in Paris."
Her secret weapon – though not so secret if you understand the vagaries of twitter – is Nicholas Mellamphy, whom she hired to revive the company's high-end collection.
"At the Rick Owens shop in the Palais," he tweeted yesterday to a few dozen followers. The Bay's new creative director of the St. Regis Room, who brings designer expertise from Chanel, Gucci, Holts and Hazel, and a big black book of industry contacts, is on a mission. He's been in Europe for nearly three weeks with two associates hunting for exclusive merchandise to bring back to Toronto. Boss's orders.
"You have to have compelling, competitive advantage," Brooks says. "And one of the competitive advantages is most certainly exclusivity."
In Paris, as the lights went down for the beginning of the Lanvin collection, Barbara Atkin, vice-president of fashion direction for Holt Renfrew, bared her teeth at the notion of the Bay as competition. "There are certain things they have that we don't want and there are certain things they would like that they can't have," she told the Star's fashion editor David Graham.
Back in Toronto, Brooks smiled when the comment was relayed at a private dinner party this week to promote an exclusive menswear line for the Bay by Joseph Abboud.
"They do have things that we can't have," she says. "They also have things that we wouldn't go after."
Brooks has a knack for reinventing retailers. She's known throughout the industry as a go-getter. Born in Windsor, Brooks most recently served as president of Lane Crawford Joyce Group in Hong Kong, where she worked for a decade. She transformed the merchant into a luxury retailer not unlike Holt Renfrew.
At the Bay, boosting the company's high-end merchandise is just a piece of a much bigger plan. The Bay is not abandoning its roots, she assures, but returning to them.
"We have always had a strong European designer business at the Bay, particularly in the St. Regis Room which was developed over the past two decades under the iconic Margery Steele," Brooks writes in an email.
Those were the days when customers were invited to elegant picnic lunches on the third floor of the flagship store at Yonge and Queen Sts. When models in the latest dresses paraded down a runway so loyal shoppers could purchase pieces in advance. The 72-year-old Room is showing its age.
"I was in there probably about a year ago and you were kind of looking to see if anybody was sleeping in a corner," says a retail analyst.
Mary Symon, a publicist in the luxury industry who was introduced to the St. Regis Room by her grandmother and mother, hasn't shopped the third floor since the mid-90s. She's looking forward to Mellamphy's revamp.
"His ability to target designers and the collections that really are relevant is, I think, unbelievable."
Brooks's plan to rescue the Bay relies on much more than luxe items. It's about what she calls "white space" – that gap between the Bay's merchandise and what Holts sells. Tapping that market, especially in this economy, is critical.
"We've just spent many months and an enormous amount of funds working with outside consultants to ... establish how big that white space is and what to fill it with."
Since joining the Bay in August, Brooks has received piles of feedback from Canadian shoppers.
"I'm surprised at the amount of customers who are actually contacting me directly about products, about ideas, about things they'd like to see in the store," she says.
A woman from Kitchener wrote to Brooks, concerned about the sizing and assortment of bras.
"When we really looked into the inventory, we found that there was a void," Brooks says.
"We're changing some of our assortments as a result." In fact, the entire lingerie department will be rehauled, she says. The letter writer is now a product tester. "She's trying out things for us right now as we speak and giving us feedback."
So the Bay's arsenal ranges from mystery lingerie woman to the not-so mysterious Mellamphy, from Kitchener, Ont., to Paris – and ultimately, to the Boss.
Even arch-rival Atkin bows respectfully to Bonnie Brooks's retailing "genius."
But there's a but. "Can she do it in five years – exact her influence enough to change the company?"
"That," says Atkin, "remains to be seen."