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Dooney's Reality Show Reno

unimaginative2

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I was wondering why they had garbage bags on the windows...



The grande dame of the Annex goes under the reality TV knife

AMY VERNER

November 17, 2007

As soon as I spotted Igor, I knew that Graziano Marchese was biting the

bullet.

Mr. Marchese is the affable owner of Dooney's, the unpretentious but storied Annex café where creative minds go to work or unwind. As of last Thursday and for the next week, they'll have to go elsewhere. When they return, they'll be in for a surprise.

So will Mr. Marchese. Dooney's has become the latest conquest of Restaurant Makeover, the Canadian-produced television series that - for a fee of $15,000 -transforms troubled neighbourhood joints into glossy hot spots.

"Graz, how could you?" is what many regulars are expressing. That was my reaction two weeks ago when I found myself enjoying a fragrant cup of clove tea with my long-time friend and fellow Globe and Mail writer Rick Salutin, a Dooney's devotee.

Amidst the bookish crowd, I became distracted by two slick men only to realize that I was watching Igor Shamraychuk, Restaurant Makeover's contractor extraordinaire, at work.

I soon learned from Mr. Marchese that the other fellow was Jonathan Furlong, the show's newest designer. They examined the space the way a fashion designer sizes up a model: lacking compassion but passionate about their vision.

Upon chatting with Mr. Furlong, I became less concerned for Mr. Marchese. Having frequented the establishment over the years, Mr. Furlong maintained that he would do nothing to destroy its authenticity. Tightlipped almost to perfection, Mr. Furlong let slip that the tables will have granite inlays. Sounds promising.

When I met with line producer Michael Taylor at ground zero earlier this week, he said that people have nothing to fear. "This isn't the kind of place we want to make nouveau riche," he said, while admitting that this is the first restaurant where customers have actually cared so much.

In fact, some people are so emotionally invested in the reno that Mr. Marchese organized a "town hall" meeting, filmed last Thursday for inclusion in the episode. City councillor Anthony Perruzza, writer Brian Fawcett and Chippy's owner John Lee were among those who offered feedback and, for the sake of the plotline, all cheered that change would be good.

But at what cost? When I caught up with freelance book editor Dominic Darell, he said, "There are so many places in Toronto to go for that," meaning, a more chichi setting. "And if Graz has no say, then it's not his place."

Indeed, Mr. Marchese must surrender to a team who create drama for the sake of good television. "I was really excited until I woke up this morning," he said on Thursday. "I'm having abandonment issues; it's like giving up a child."

But he'd been feeling the heat, more so recently than in the past when he fended off a Starbucks in 1996 thanks to the support of local figureheads such as the late Jane Jacobs. "At the end of the day, I've got to pay $9,200 a month in rent and that's a big concern all the time," he said. Ideally, the fresh coat of paint, new furniture and a more inspired menu (care of chef Corbin Tomaszeski, who creates globally influenced fare for Holt Renfrew) will encourage more people to come for dinner. Dooney's will officially re-open next Monday.

And what of the effects of this so-called restaurant makeover? The face-lifted Latitude, Via Oliveto and Innocenti are now closed. "What happens afterward, I'm not sure," answered Mr. Taylor, whose soft and reassuring voice could convince me to drink antifreeze. "It could be management issues. We don't tell you how to run the restaurant."

Fair enough. And if Mr. Marchese shines at anything, it's his generosity toward both patrons and staff.Mr. Taylor may have put it best: "It will be a nail biter for sure." Here's hoping the week works up everyone's appetite.

averner@globeandmail.com
 
This will be interesting. My office (my boss' home) is in the area and Dooney's is one of his favourite restaurants. He liked Latitude too, and was sad to see it close...
 
I wonder what will replace Dooney's? That show is generally the kiss of death for the restaurants that are on it.
 
It would be interesting to track down which have closed, which are still going. I am under the impression that while a number of well-publicized ones have closed, more are doing fine.

More often than not, I think the restaurants that signed up were in trouble because of the food (vs. ugly joints with good food, which still seems to work in this town), so if they don't end up with better work in the kitchen afterwards, it's all going to come to nought no matter what it looks like out front.

42
 
Exactly. Or they leave it too late and no amount of redecoration or rejiggery of the menu can lure people back. Whatever was last in that space on Victoria, South of Richmond is one such place. They did a great reno, and it promptly closed.
 
The Side Door Grill certainly didn't last for long after their Makeover reno. But even with great food a reno wasn't enough to counteract their terrible location on Dundas surrounded by Portugese bars and convienience stores.
 
Oh, that's right. The Savoy is a bit further up Victoria, where The Senator used to be (the bottom floor of the former Senator).
Prior to The Strand, this restaurant was called Denison's, and they brewed their own beer on the premises. It seemed to be a fairly busy restaurant but I guess not enough.
Side Note: We had take-out last night from Ivory Thailand, the new Thai spot on Church just north of Adelaide and it was delicious!
 
Dooney's sold

Dooney's was sold this week:


http://network.nationalpost.com/np/...06/19/end-of-an-era-for-dooney-s-caf-233.aspx


By Max Fawcett, National Post
Dooney’s Café, the Annex institution that famously fended off a takeover attempt by Starbucks in 1995, was sold this week.
Graziano Marchese, the brother of NDP MPP Rosario Marchese, opened Dooney’s Café in 1987 and it quickly became a magnet for those who worked with ideas.
Local celebrities like Margaret Atwood, Sarah Polley, and the late Jane Jacobs all frequented the place at one time or another, and a whole host of lesser-known writers, film makers, journalists, and artists made Dooney’s Café both their office and designated home-away-from-home.
But even a beloved cultural institution like Dooney’s needs to pay its bills, and Mr. Marchese has been finding that harder than ever of late. The neighbourhood’s demographics have tilted toward a younger crowd, and he believes that his vision for Dooney’s Café doesn’t meet its needs.
Meanwhile, his decision to participate on HGTV’s Restaurant Makeover didn’t help nearly as much as he’d hoped. While he refused to comment directly on the outcome of the show, stating only that “it had an effect,” many of his regular customers believe the post-modern décor did serious damage to the business.
But whatever the reason, Dooney’s Café is another casualty of the Annex’s slow drift from a functional bohemian neighbourhood to an upscale student ghetto populated by bars, fast-food outlets, and stubbornly resilient futon stores.
Taking Mr. Marchese’s place on his corner of the Annex will be Marnie Goldlust, a twenty-something who has indicated that she will retain the café’s name and look.
But for the café’s vaunted regulars, the sale still marks the end of an era.
Aris Ipsilopoulos and Julie Capone, a recently married couple who have been coming to Dooney’s for over 20 years, both describe Dooney’s as an extended family and one that they’re worried will break apart with the sale. Without the familiar presence of the Marchese family they worry that the atmosphere of the café will change, that it will no longer be conducive to the freewheeling banter, uncensored arguments, and casual, disinterested friendliness that defined the place.
“For me,’’ Mr. Ipsilopoulos said, “Dooney’s is the only place I know where I can have meaningful conversations with total strangers without it ever feeling even remotely strange. There’s a sense of safety, of community, and of continuity that you just can’t find anywhere else in Toronto.”
The area’s city councillor and longtime Dooney’s regular Adam Vaughan said “there are conversations that you can have here that you can’t have anywhere else in Toronto.”
The words “Save Dooney’s” are still etched in the pavement outside Dooney’s on the corner of Bloor and Borden streets, an enduring testimony to its unlikely victory over Starbucks. Unfortunately for those who fought that battle, as well as those who simply enjoy the pleasures of an afternoon espresso or a glass of red wine on its corner patio, there will be no saving Dooney’s Café this time around.
Mr. Marchese believes that if Dooney’s Café is to succeed in the future it must cater more to the interests of younger people, and he’s not willing to do that. “I enjoy the people that come here and have been coming here for the past 21 years. To change the focus of my business away from them would be to change my life, and that’s not something that I’m prepared to do.”
Or, as Mr. Vaughan observed, “you can’t force people to stay in business forever.”


http://www.theglobeandmail.com/serv...ational/?page=rss&id=RTGAM.20080620.wdooney20
 
I haven't been in there since the makeover. I'm curious to see how it looks.

As for Restaurant Makeover, it's a fun show. Most restaurants do well. Quite a few of them do close, but let's face it...you could give some of these places the best renovation and menu in the world and they still wouldn't succeed. Some people just aren't cut out to run a restaurant.
 

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