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samsonyuen
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Not in Toronto (now anyway), but could this mean an entry outside of Québec?
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Friday » July 29 » 2005
Ailing Les Ailes on point of sale
'Cheap chic' retailer to buy high-end fashion chain
Hollie Shaw
Financial Post
Friday, July 29, 2005
The owner of fashion chains Fairweather and International Clothiers is in advanced talks to acquire high-end Quebec department store chain Groupe Les Ailes de la Mode Inc., the Financial Post has learned.
"It's basically a done deal," said a source close to the negotiations. "They are at the stage of landlord approvals."
News that Isaac Benitah, a godfather of 'cheap chic' fashion in Canada, is about to buy the troubled luxury retailer has sent shock waves through Montreal's fashion circles, given the once lofty aspirations of Les Ailes.
"[Mr. Benitah] is the personification of a great mass merchant," said Anthony Stokan, partner at retailing consultancy Anthony Russell and Associates.
"He is to fashion what a fast-food outlet is to food: He takes the hottest look of the moment, knocks it off, and sells it at the cheapest price. And Les Ailes is the antithesis of that."
Mr. Benitah could not be reached yesterday. A Les Ailes spokesman had no comment.
The news all but closes the door on a retail concept described by apparel market consultant David Howell as "a great idea at the wrong time."
Les Ailes was the dream project of Paul Delage Roberge, the jewel in the crown of his 200-store retailing empire Les Boutiques San Francisco Inc., which operated nine chains including Bikini Village, Frisco, West Coast, Victoire Delage and San Francisco.
It was conceived as Canada's answer to the U.S. retailer Nordstrom, an old-fashioned department store with luxurious wares, high-end service and a grand piano. The first three Quebec outlets were a success, averaging more than $450 in sales per square foot, and Mr. Roberge wanted to expand the concept across Canada.
But a venture in Ottawa failed in 2003 after two disappointing years, and an ambitious 225,000-square foot flagship store in downtown Montreal touched off a financial crisis within the Boucherville, Que.-based company. The retailer began to close stores and sell off its banners in 2003, and Mr. Roberge stepped down as chief executive while staying on as chairman.
After losing $60.2-million in the year ended Jan. 31, 2004, it was renamed and reorganized as Groupe Les Ailes de la Mode Inc. and emerged from seven months of creditor protection last year after 30 investors injected $19.2-million in new financing.
Four of the original eight Les Ailes stores remain open, and the Montreal outlet has been cut to a third of its former size. The investors recently supplied another $3.2-million.
One industry source said Mr. Benitah, who runs more than 200 stores across Canada under the banners Fairweather, International Clothiers and Randy River, is interested in relaunching the Les Ailes chain as an off-price retailer in the vein of Winners. Another source said Mr. Benitah would continue to operate the current Les Ailes format in order to access $50-million in tax losses that are an integral part of the deal and to comply with lease restrictions at some higher end locations, including the old Eaton centre property in downtown Montreal. Bikini Village is not part of the negotiations, sources said.
Industry players believe that in order for the remaining Les Ailes stores to survive, they will have to appeal to customers who are more interested in low prices than in high fashion.
"Small department stores are probably the most complicated retail category in Canada right now," Mr. Stokan said. "That customer has really gone to big-box stores and players like Winners, who are now going into the downtowns of Canada."
Groupe Les Ailes is now under the stewardship of David Margolis, founder of the Winners chain, who himself seemed to concede this point at the retailer's sparsely attended annual meeting last week.
Les Ailes is starting to see improvements from a recent move into "value-priced" fashions for middle to high-end consumers, he noted, adding Canadians are more selective in their purchases than they used to be due to squeezed disposable incomes.
The retailer is still struggling. Its stock trades at less than a tenth of its value five years ago, and it reported a loss from continuing operations of $2.8-million, or 17 cents a share, for the first quarter ended April 30. Sales dropped almost 15% to $22.8-million from $26.8-million in 2004. Sales at the 59-store Bikini Village chain fell 5.5% and the Les Ailes stores posted a 20.5% drop. Mr. Margolis said both Les Ailes and Bikini Village should be profitable in the third or fourth quarters of this year.
___________________________
Friday » July 29 » 2005
Ailing Les Ailes on point of sale
'Cheap chic' retailer to buy high-end fashion chain
Hollie Shaw
Financial Post
Friday, July 29, 2005
The owner of fashion chains Fairweather and International Clothiers is in advanced talks to acquire high-end Quebec department store chain Groupe Les Ailes de la Mode Inc., the Financial Post has learned.
"It's basically a done deal," said a source close to the negotiations. "They are at the stage of landlord approvals."
News that Isaac Benitah, a godfather of 'cheap chic' fashion in Canada, is about to buy the troubled luxury retailer has sent shock waves through Montreal's fashion circles, given the once lofty aspirations of Les Ailes.
"[Mr. Benitah] is the personification of a great mass merchant," said Anthony Stokan, partner at retailing consultancy Anthony Russell and Associates.
"He is to fashion what a fast-food outlet is to food: He takes the hottest look of the moment, knocks it off, and sells it at the cheapest price. And Les Ailes is the antithesis of that."
Mr. Benitah could not be reached yesterday. A Les Ailes spokesman had no comment.
The news all but closes the door on a retail concept described by apparel market consultant David Howell as "a great idea at the wrong time."
Les Ailes was the dream project of Paul Delage Roberge, the jewel in the crown of his 200-store retailing empire Les Boutiques San Francisco Inc., which operated nine chains including Bikini Village, Frisco, West Coast, Victoire Delage and San Francisco.
It was conceived as Canada's answer to the U.S. retailer Nordstrom, an old-fashioned department store with luxurious wares, high-end service and a grand piano. The first three Quebec outlets were a success, averaging more than $450 in sales per square foot, and Mr. Roberge wanted to expand the concept across Canada.
But a venture in Ottawa failed in 2003 after two disappointing years, and an ambitious 225,000-square foot flagship store in downtown Montreal touched off a financial crisis within the Boucherville, Que.-based company. The retailer began to close stores and sell off its banners in 2003, and Mr. Roberge stepped down as chief executive while staying on as chairman.
After losing $60.2-million in the year ended Jan. 31, 2004, it was renamed and reorganized as Groupe Les Ailes de la Mode Inc. and emerged from seven months of creditor protection last year after 30 investors injected $19.2-million in new financing.
Four of the original eight Les Ailes stores remain open, and the Montreal outlet has been cut to a third of its former size. The investors recently supplied another $3.2-million.
One industry source said Mr. Benitah, who runs more than 200 stores across Canada under the banners Fairweather, International Clothiers and Randy River, is interested in relaunching the Les Ailes chain as an off-price retailer in the vein of Winners. Another source said Mr. Benitah would continue to operate the current Les Ailes format in order to access $50-million in tax losses that are an integral part of the deal and to comply with lease restrictions at some higher end locations, including the old Eaton centre property in downtown Montreal. Bikini Village is not part of the negotiations, sources said.
Industry players believe that in order for the remaining Les Ailes stores to survive, they will have to appeal to customers who are more interested in low prices than in high fashion.
"Small department stores are probably the most complicated retail category in Canada right now," Mr. Stokan said. "That customer has really gone to big-box stores and players like Winners, who are now going into the downtowns of Canada."
Groupe Les Ailes is now under the stewardship of David Margolis, founder of the Winners chain, who himself seemed to concede this point at the retailer's sparsely attended annual meeting last week.
Les Ailes is starting to see improvements from a recent move into "value-priced" fashions for middle to high-end consumers, he noted, adding Canadians are more selective in their purchases than they used to be due to squeezed disposable incomes.
The retailer is still struggling. Its stock trades at less than a tenth of its value five years ago, and it reported a loss from continuing operations of $2.8-million, or 17 cents a share, for the first quarter ended April 30. Sales dropped almost 15% to $22.8-million from $26.8-million in 2004. Sales at the 59-store Bikini Village chain fell 5.5% and the Les Ailes stores posted a 20.5% drop. Mr. Margolis said both Les Ailes and Bikini Village should be profitable in the third or fourth quarters of this year.