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From July 28 Miami Herald
Is Toronto Canada's coolest city? Modest and self-deprecating, Torontonians will forever shy away from any such depiction, pointing to Montreal as the center of all things cool in Canada.
But Toronto, or ``T Dot'' (a nickname coined by local rap artists), has long since surpassed Montreal as Canada's cultural hub. Only in recent times has it seen its sense of self-confidence grow along with its size.
With new investments in infrastructure, an influx of suburbanites into the downtown core and hundreds of new restaurants, bars and cafes opening, Toronto is undergoing a renaissance from dour business hub to vibrant, dynamic city.
While Vancouver remains too clean, almost utopic, Calgary too conservative and Montreal enjoys an elegant decline, Toronto has become Canada's true capital -- of business, finance, arts and sports -- in everything but formal title.
Best of all, it's still growing: dozens of skyscrapers under construction, a Frank Gehry-designed art gallery just opened, a new opera house, and a recently refurbished city square.
QUEEN WEST
Queen Street West has been the center of English-speaking Canada's alternative arts scene since the 1980s, having replaced the now über-posh Yorkville neighborhood, once Canada's hippie haven.
Block by block, storefront by storefront, the commercial has chased the indie westward down Queen Street into once derelict areas, which have become home to the so-called ``creative class.'' The neighborhood's dozens of galleries are anchored by the recently opened Museum of Contemporary Canadian Art (952 Queen St. West). Surrounding the museum is an abundance of small contemporary art and photo galleries, such as Clint Roenisch Gallery (944 Queen St. West), 107Shaw Gallery (107 Shaw St.) and Stephen Bulger Gallery (1026 Queen St. West).
As for grub, it has been said that there is nothing one can't find on Queen Street -- from Tibetan to Jamaican. For some of the best roti this side of Guyana, try Bacchus Roti Shop (1376 Queen St. West), which serves gargantuan wraps stuffed with creamy sweet potato and chickpeas. For dinner try Harlem Underground (745 Queen St. West), a jazzy soul food spot that has some of Toronto's best chicken and ribs.
At night the all-season rooftop lounge at the Drake Hotel (1150 Queen St. West) is usually buzzing with cocktail-swilling 30-somethings while the underground bar has live music on weekends.
For a younger crowd that likes to dance, head to The Social (1100 Queen St. West), a hipster nightspot. Check local listings for concerts at the legendary Horseshoe Tavern (368 Queen St. West), where Canadian acts such as The Band, Tragically Hip and Bryan Adams got their break.
For after-bar noshing, try Poutini's House of Poutine (1112 Queen St. West) for Canada's favorite post-club chow, which is hand-cut fries, squeaky cheese curds and piping hot gravy poured over top.
LESLIEVILLE
A once poverty-stricken neighborhood between downtown and the tony Beaches neighborhood, Leslieville has been revitalized, revamped and not so subtly gentrified with condos, restaurants and coffee shops. Its gritty past lives on in smoky bars, decrepit gas stations and the iconic Jilly's strip club, yet remnants of those times are fading. No trip is complete without a visit to Dangerous Dan's Diner (714 Queen St. East), a dive that serves some of the city's juiciest burgers, with thick slices of bacon and two eggs on top.
Walk those calories off by exploring the many small boutiques, such as Nathalie-Roze and Co. (1050 Queen St. East) that offers clothing, crafts and ``I Love Leslieville'' T-shirts. After an espresso at one of the neighborhood's bohemian cafes (try Te-Aro Roasted, 983 Queen St. East or Dark Horse Espresso Bar, 682 Queen St. East or Mercury Espresso Bar, 915 Queen St. East), head to Tomi-Kro (1214 Queen St. East) for Asian-fusion dinner with deliciously pretentious dishes, such as the rich and creamy duck liver creme brule.
Nightlife here is subdued -- fitting for an evening stroll. On a warm evening have a house-made ice cream bar on the tranquil backyard patio at the earnestly named Cream: The Urban Dairy (1298 Queen St. East).
KENSINGTON MARKET
Kensington Market could be said to represent the most concentrated form of Toronto's postwar identity as a melting pot of immigrants looking for a better life. From Jewish immigrants from Eastern Europe to American draft dodgers during the Vietnam era, Kensington epitomizes Toronto's role as Canada's port of arrival for the world's downtrodden.
Kensington's place in history was recognized in 2006, when it became a National Historic site. Yet far from being a tourist trap, the streets still evoke the sounds and smells of far off places.
A visit first requires a stop at the ramshackle Luis Coffee Stop (235 Augusta Ave.) next to the Casa Acoreana nut shop to people watch over a chai latte. Next, head down Kensington Avenue to check out the colorful thrift shops that have overrun the ornate Victorian houses lining the block. Though pot is illegal in Canada, you would not know it from strolling through the streets of Kensington, particularly near Roach-o-Rama (191A Baldwin St.), whose cafe/boutique is a mecca for aficionados. Kensington offers Toronto's funkiest dining at bargain prices.
Nightlife in Kensington has been made famous by its backroom ``afterhours'' parties that are known only through word of mouth. For the less daring, Supermarket (268 Augusta Ave.) and The Boat (158 Augusta Ave.) both guarantee a night on the town.
THE JUNCTION
Being cool means staying ahead of the curve. Most Torontonians have scarcely heard of the Junction neighborhood on the city's northwest frontier, yet the post-industrial hood is soon to be the city's ``next big thing.''
Once a railway factory town -- a home to foundries, mills and meat packers -- the Junction fell into decline after the Great Depression. Though still an area in transition, adventurous visitors might want to make the journey to watch the city transform before their eyes.
Axis Gallery and Grill (3048 Dundas St. West) is a local favorite for live music and reasonably priced brew. If it seems wrong to eat a tepid meal that is entirely raw and vegan in cold Canada, Rawlicious (3092 Dundas St. West) serves versions of spaghetti Bolognese and pad thai that might change your mind.
Lovers of used books and records should head to Pandemonium (2862 Dundas St. West), the store that kicked off the Junction's trendy rebirth. Though the immediate neighborhood has yet to develop an active nightlife, Hugh's Room (2261 Dundas St. West), just south of the neighborhood has a dedicated clientele and live music on most nights of the week.
Is Toronto Canada's coolest city? Modest and self-deprecating, Torontonians will forever shy away from any such depiction, pointing to Montreal as the center of all things cool in Canada.
But Toronto, or ``T Dot'' (a nickname coined by local rap artists), has long since surpassed Montreal as Canada's cultural hub. Only in recent times has it seen its sense of self-confidence grow along with its size.
With new investments in infrastructure, an influx of suburbanites into the downtown core and hundreds of new restaurants, bars and cafes opening, Toronto is undergoing a renaissance from dour business hub to vibrant, dynamic city.
While Vancouver remains too clean, almost utopic, Calgary too conservative and Montreal enjoys an elegant decline, Toronto has become Canada's true capital -- of business, finance, arts and sports -- in everything but formal title.
Best of all, it's still growing: dozens of skyscrapers under construction, a Frank Gehry-designed art gallery just opened, a new opera house, and a recently refurbished city square.
QUEEN WEST
Queen Street West has been the center of English-speaking Canada's alternative arts scene since the 1980s, having replaced the now über-posh Yorkville neighborhood, once Canada's hippie haven.
Block by block, storefront by storefront, the commercial has chased the indie westward down Queen Street into once derelict areas, which have become home to the so-called ``creative class.'' The neighborhood's dozens of galleries are anchored by the recently opened Museum of Contemporary Canadian Art (952 Queen St. West). Surrounding the museum is an abundance of small contemporary art and photo galleries, such as Clint Roenisch Gallery (944 Queen St. West), 107Shaw Gallery (107 Shaw St.) and Stephen Bulger Gallery (1026 Queen St. West).
As for grub, it has been said that there is nothing one can't find on Queen Street -- from Tibetan to Jamaican. For some of the best roti this side of Guyana, try Bacchus Roti Shop (1376 Queen St. West), which serves gargantuan wraps stuffed with creamy sweet potato and chickpeas. For dinner try Harlem Underground (745 Queen St. West), a jazzy soul food spot that has some of Toronto's best chicken and ribs.
At night the all-season rooftop lounge at the Drake Hotel (1150 Queen St. West) is usually buzzing with cocktail-swilling 30-somethings while the underground bar has live music on weekends.
For a younger crowd that likes to dance, head to The Social (1100 Queen St. West), a hipster nightspot. Check local listings for concerts at the legendary Horseshoe Tavern (368 Queen St. West), where Canadian acts such as The Band, Tragically Hip and Bryan Adams got their break.
For after-bar noshing, try Poutini's House of Poutine (1112 Queen St. West) for Canada's favorite post-club chow, which is hand-cut fries, squeaky cheese curds and piping hot gravy poured over top.
LESLIEVILLE
A once poverty-stricken neighborhood between downtown and the tony Beaches neighborhood, Leslieville has been revitalized, revamped and not so subtly gentrified with condos, restaurants and coffee shops. Its gritty past lives on in smoky bars, decrepit gas stations and the iconic Jilly's strip club, yet remnants of those times are fading. No trip is complete without a visit to Dangerous Dan's Diner (714 Queen St. East), a dive that serves some of the city's juiciest burgers, with thick slices of bacon and two eggs on top.
Walk those calories off by exploring the many small boutiques, such as Nathalie-Roze and Co. (1050 Queen St. East) that offers clothing, crafts and ``I Love Leslieville'' T-shirts. After an espresso at one of the neighborhood's bohemian cafes (try Te-Aro Roasted, 983 Queen St. East or Dark Horse Espresso Bar, 682 Queen St. East or Mercury Espresso Bar, 915 Queen St. East), head to Tomi-Kro (1214 Queen St. East) for Asian-fusion dinner with deliciously pretentious dishes, such as the rich and creamy duck liver creme brule.
Nightlife here is subdued -- fitting for an evening stroll. On a warm evening have a house-made ice cream bar on the tranquil backyard patio at the earnestly named Cream: The Urban Dairy (1298 Queen St. East).
KENSINGTON MARKET
Kensington Market could be said to represent the most concentrated form of Toronto's postwar identity as a melting pot of immigrants looking for a better life. From Jewish immigrants from Eastern Europe to American draft dodgers during the Vietnam era, Kensington epitomizes Toronto's role as Canada's port of arrival for the world's downtrodden.
Kensington's place in history was recognized in 2006, when it became a National Historic site. Yet far from being a tourist trap, the streets still evoke the sounds and smells of far off places.
A visit first requires a stop at the ramshackle Luis Coffee Stop (235 Augusta Ave.) next to the Casa Acoreana nut shop to people watch over a chai latte. Next, head down Kensington Avenue to check out the colorful thrift shops that have overrun the ornate Victorian houses lining the block. Though pot is illegal in Canada, you would not know it from strolling through the streets of Kensington, particularly near Roach-o-Rama (191A Baldwin St.), whose cafe/boutique is a mecca for aficionados. Kensington offers Toronto's funkiest dining at bargain prices.
Nightlife in Kensington has been made famous by its backroom ``afterhours'' parties that are known only through word of mouth. For the less daring, Supermarket (268 Augusta Ave.) and The Boat (158 Augusta Ave.) both guarantee a night on the town.
THE JUNCTION
Being cool means staying ahead of the curve. Most Torontonians have scarcely heard of the Junction neighborhood on the city's northwest frontier, yet the post-industrial hood is soon to be the city's ``next big thing.''
Once a railway factory town -- a home to foundries, mills and meat packers -- the Junction fell into decline after the Great Depression. Though still an area in transition, adventurous visitors might want to make the journey to watch the city transform before their eyes.
Axis Gallery and Grill (3048 Dundas St. West) is a local favorite for live music and reasonably priced brew. If it seems wrong to eat a tepid meal that is entirely raw and vegan in cold Canada, Rawlicious (3092 Dundas St. West) serves versions of spaghetti Bolognese and pad thai that might change your mind.
Lovers of used books and records should head to Pandemonium (2862 Dundas St. West), the store that kicked off the Junction's trendy rebirth. Though the immediate neighborhood has yet to develop an active nightlife, Hugh's Room (2261 Dundas St. West), just south of the neighborhood has a dedicated clientele and live music on most nights of the week.
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