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A residential tour: From Queen West to the Annex, via Denison and Brunswick Avenue

urbandreamer

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On Saturday, 31 May 2008 late afternoon, the rain had stopped and I was bored. Where would I go? After checking out the tedious new Urban Outfitters store on Queen West (who wants to wear Obama t-shirts or Levi's skinny jeans? Yawn....) I was exhausted by the hipster/wannabe scene. I've always wanted to take photos showing the "real" aka the residential side of Toronto, so where better to start than my original Toronto experience--a route from my old home on Brunswick Avenue to Queen West a decade ago, which I've probably walked hundreds of times, from 4AM to 4PM.

It's 5:30PM, and I'm standing at the corner of Queen St West and Denison Avenue. (Once again, I'm presenting the photos thumbnail style, so click to enjoy.)

I've never been in this RC Church--but I've often wondered who wants to be a nun in this day and age?
It's all relative, but something about 100 year old yellow brick churches is so much more appealing than a temple to money (lawyers): BA. In 100 years, which structure will still look good?

This stretch of Denison is a mix of rundown homes, rooming houses and a few renovated yuppie homes--but ultimately, in contrast to Freedville just south of here, is a very old-school Chinese neighbourhood clashing with the Alexander Co-op ghetto locked between Chinatown proper and the Denison/Bathurst corridor. How long before the condo kids discover these old homes...? It doesn't feel like a "big city" here.



The highlight of the street: a red house!

Then the "scary" section begins--I know plenty of Kensington Market kids (some pretty grungy, some more yuppie class--but all white) that are literally terrified by this strip and refuse to walk by at night. Freaks I say! In some way, the architecture is better here than at Cityplace or Liberty Village!



Charming parking lot, eh? (I've never understood why public housing has parking--are their cars subsidized too?)

Dundas West here is oh-so-close to downtown, yet strangely (or rather, typically Toronto style) feels like it's in another world. A very grim part of the world--almost as bad as a strip plaza? See how working class values clash with the faux hippies of K-Market? A future condo loft site, perhaps?

An old Chinese grandma curses at me making me wonder if I'm intruding on her private space--it's her neighbourhood, obviously, not mine.



The transition from working class grit to K-Market grunge meets yuppie starts here: on Wales Ave at Leonard stands a lone taco shop that could represent a new direction for the market neighbourhood: Latino home ownership to follow? Inspired by the hype in local media, I go inside. I say: forget the tacos (they're rather plain and taste bland) and just get the wholesale tortillas! Yummy!:)



On Augusta, the Zimmerman rival clans battle it out: Newsflash: They both suck!

Now let's cross College Street and start our journey up Brunswick Avenue.

A pity Doctor's Hospital didn't live until the age of Peter Clewes's dominance of good taste in Toronto. This garbage belongs in Mississauga not at Brunswick and College!



The stretch of Brunswick between College and Ulster is like a "garden city." I used to find this part rundown--the last 8 years has seen tons of renovated homes, wealthier people take over the area and you can really tell by the care given to the landscaping. It has become one of my favourite "walks" in the city. (Next time you find yourself at Manic Coffee on College, take a little walk north on Brunswick.:)



North of Ulster St, things become a little more pedestrian. Still, unlike most downtown residential streets, Brunswick is charming even here--you've got relatively more pedestrians walking to the clubs and cafes of College, rooming houses and students cycling by on their way to class.



If "I'd rather be homeless than live in a condo," I'd rather live in this little house than 99% of the condos being built around town. It's small enough to manage, but you get a perfect shady yard to relax in, and it is one of my favourite homes on Brunswick Avenue:




Just north of Harbord, one of my favourite buildings I've never gone in...someday I shall.:) First Narayever Congregation's house'o fun:


A favourite place to get stoned or drunk as a teenager/student:



The best-ever little rundown shack was knocked down a few years ago to be replaced by this awkard looking "fake" Victorian. Notice the desire to create a third floor view ruined the architectural integrity of the home?





Home sweet home. (Well my old home anyhow.) How many years did I spend walking up and down this stretch of Brunswick Avenue north of Bloor? Hmm.... It remains my favourite spot in the City. How many old residents I knew have either passed on, moved out of Toronto or graduated with multiple degrees? Condo/apartment living may be convenient, but imho if you truly want to become part of Toronto you've got to live beneath the forest of trees, sit on your front porch and meet the neigbhours, watch time pass by.... The Annex simply cannot be beat! Where else do you witness Mendelson Joe walking semi-naked through a snowstorm, Jane Jacobs slowly stumbling down the street, Margaret Atwood sitting at By the Way Cafe, Ken Finkleman creeping by in his black BMW, young lovers breaking up? Somewhere I read that if you want to be a writer in (English) Canada, you've got to have lived on Brunswick Avenue at some point!



It is interesting to see the number of teardowns going on throughout the Annex these days. The rich buying in this neighbourhood have no better taste than the rich buying "McMansions" in the 'burbs. Very sad. Also, note the different architectural styles throughout these photos--the lovely Victorians (from shacks to cottages to mini-mansions) versus the 1940's, 1970's and today's efforts: what the hell is wrong with modern society that allows such garbage to be built? Aren't there laws in Toronto protecting these old homes?



Brunswick Avenue takes a little curve here, before it ends up at Dupont. Jean Sibelius Square--this is a proper Toronto Square btw: lotsa green!


Well(s) I'm almost finished. Instead of finishing Brunswick, I head West on Wells St to Howland Ave, heading back down to Bloor West. It's nearing 7PM and I'm tired.

A few parting shots along Wells and Howland:


All along the Bloor subway line at surface level is a long "wound," some of it appearing as surface parking and other as public housing. The local home owners always viewed these public housing residents with suspicion, and the old folks recalled the horrors of watching old blocks of Victorians meet their TTC maker. I actually think LRT along Bloor St was more urban, slowed down vehicular traffic, and kept old neighbourhoods intact.


But I'm a hypocrite, and can't wait to get on the subway ... home.:)

Sure, Bloor Street tempts here with its cafe culture, but I'm tired and depressed.:(



But, what's so freaking hard to replicate here in the suburbs? Why do urban planners repeatedly screw up? Just look at this strip of Toronto and knock it off, says I!

One final observation about the transformation of Brunswick Avenue from mostly rooming house students and old-school European immigrants to yuppie paradise: I seem to recall the locals being friendlier and more relaxed. As I took all these photos, local home owners glared at me as they got out of their BMW's, Audi's and Mazda's. One man questioned if I was a tourist or a real estate agent! I get the sense downtown is becoming just another Forest Hill or Rosedale....:(

More huge residential tours to come.....
 
Thank you for this! That must have taken a long time to shoot and put together. Some interesting observations, too. I have always wanted to live in the Annex but never have; now I doubt I'll ever be able to afford it.
 
^I agree. My old landlord bought three homes on Brunswick for less than $10,000 combined--c. 1940.

Time spent shooting this photo tour: 1.5 hours.
Time spent arranging and writing my observations for this thread: 1 hour.
Money earned: 0.
My enjoyment level: priceless.:)

I plan on showing other parts of Toronto--Riverdale (Urbanshocker which street do you live on?), Leslieville, the Beach, Roncevalles, the Kingsway, Forest Hill (will they call the cops on me there?;) and more!
 
Definitely a nice urban fabric in this part of the city. I don't know how it could be replicated. The residential areas have a nice density and the streets are walkable, that part could be replicated, but the area has a worn in feel that only comes with age.
 
fantastic tour and commentary my friend! your writing style seems to be maturing - is there a book deal in your future? Drop me a line and I'll join you for Forest Hill!
 
An interesting set of photos of some interesting neighbourhoods. Good commentary as well, although I have to disagree with you about the retirement residence which replaced Doctors Hospital. I like this building, which has a scale well suited to the area, and the generous use of red brick also fits in this neighbourhood. I'm not so sure that Clewes could have done better!

You got a picture of a place on Brunswick where a friend of mine lives. Interesting observation about the local residents and their attitudes. I haven't noticed that myself, but there is no doubt that the character of the area has changed drastically over the past few years.
 

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