The western invasion: Toronto's new restaurant kings

[christiesplits]

Joey's. Earl's. Cactus Club. Milestones. Moxie's. All products of west coast corporate hospitality groups, they have expanded across the GTA, from suburban power centres to swanky downtown corridors. In a competitive industry with huge risk for up-and-comer chefs and owners, these chains have succeeded on a business model of warm, straight-out-of-the-kit ambiance, factory-line 'high brow' cuisine, fetching (if not flaunting) front-of-house staff and huge marketing campaigns.

Do you reckon these corporate chains are here to stay? Will they affect Toronto's culinary diaspora, or are they serving a specific clientele? I would appreciate your input, especially among the UT foodies.

 

[grey]

Bring them on. I can't speak for the GTA, but the downtown locations absolutely serve a specific clientele (suburbanites working in the FD), and while they don't appeal to me in the slightest, I can appreciate that even these chain restaurants can serve as incubators of talent. They provide more opportunities for young cooks working the line who could go on to work at much better local restaurants. There's a lot of money being thrown around in these places. You can't buy taste, but I think it's good overall for the restaurant scene. Local chains like Libretto, Drake and assorted O&B ventures are doing perfectly well serving the exact same clientele. Those aside, I really don't see them as being in direct competition with local restaurateurs. Someone who chooses to eat at Moxies or Joey was never likely to visit, say, La Palette, for a multitude of reasons.

They're here to stay as long as they continue to be profitable. There will always be office types who need non-threatening places to eat that don't cause them to feel uncool or uncomfortable.

 

[christiesplits]

They absolutely serve a specific clientele (suburbanites working in the FD).. .

That is definitely the demo: The "after work" suburban crowd looking for beers and decent apps. These chains also seem to cater to large groups or functions in a way that their competitors do not. You can hardly enter an Earl's or Milestones without bumping into a birthday or bachelorette party.

I omitted their suburban "premium casual" counterparts - the Jack Astors' and Kesley's - but they follow a similar business model and serve a similar demo, albeit younger and less moneyed.

 

[grey]

Yeah, they're a fun place to hang out after work with colleagues and big TV screens. They're "crowd pleasers" for less discerning people who probably wouldn't eat at an Anthony Rose or Matty Matheson restaurant to begin with, despite fitting a similar demographic profile. I think it mas more to do with lifestyle choices, honestly.

 

[gabe]

Bring them on. I can't speak for the GTA, but the downtown locations absolutely serve a specific clientele (suburbanites working in the FD), and while they don't appeal to me in the slightest.

I think now a days the chains appeal to people living downtown too. More and more suburbanites are moving downtown. They want familiar restaurants to eat in. I don't think they will hurt Toronto's dining scene. Toronto was never a cutting edge culinary destination like NY or Montreal anyway.

It wouldn't surprise me if some higher-end American chains like Smith & Wollensky, Capital Grill or Hyde Park Steakhouse are looking for downtown Toronto locations.

Chains are here to stay. With rising rents and food costs, independent restaurant owners can't afford to open locations in the downtown core.

 

[christiesplits]

Chains are here to stay. With rising rents and food costs, independent restaurant owners can't afford to open locations in the downtown core.

Why do you think Vancouver is the trailblazer for this type of (Canadian) restaurant model?

 

[grey]

I think now a days the chains appeal to people living downtown too. More and more suburbanites are moving downtown. They want familiar restaurants to eat in. I don't think they will hurt Toronto's dining scene. Toronto was never a cutting edge culinary destination like NY or Montreal anyway.

It wouldn't surprise me if some higher-end American chains like Smith & Wollensky, Capital Grill or Hyde Park Steakhouse are looking for downtown Toronto locations.

Chains are here to stay. With rising rents and food costs, independent restaurant owners can't afford to open locations in the downtown core.

Yeah, an example of that is The Keg opening on King West. Still, I feel like people with the willingness to live downtown aren't doing so for creature comforts like outdated "Asian fusion" appetizers from 17 years ago.. and I don't think the presence of a banal chain is a huge concern to the owners of Buca, Marben, Wes Lodge, or Gusto101.

Toronto's status as a culinary destination is growing (if critics are to be believed) despite the arrival of these chains. And nobody paying attention to this sort of thing really counts chain restos of this variety when taking stock of a city's overall culinary scene.

The Americans have already begun to arrive - Cafe Boulud and Momofuku come to mind.

 

[gabe]

Why do you think Vancouver is the trailblazer for this type of (Canadian) restaurant model?

That's a very good question. I can't say it's the "familiarity" factor. Because unless you lived out west, most us have never experienced dining at a Moxie's, Cactus Club or Earl's before. I don't know why they became the trailblazer for this type of model ? Maybe it's the dim lighting, trendy decor, and servers that are easy on the eyes

I ate at The Keg on King West recently. I will be honest. It was amazing. Everyone from the hostess to the person clearing the table was pleasant and made sure everything was satisfactory. It was one of the better prime ribs i have had lately, and it didn't break the bank either.

 

[James]

I feel that these types of restaurants are the safe, de facto standard when it comes to business lunches or casual business dinners, where you don't want to think about whether your clients will like the food/experience or not.

I've eaten at these places more times than I care to admit during my business trips both out in Alberta and back home here in Toronto. They're casual without being 'cheap' and though not in upscale territory, they're still nice enough for most dining experiences where socializing is key.

 

[junctionist]

It's easy to pick one of those restaurants when you're planning an outing with little time to spare and are unfamiliar with the indie restaurants in the area. The last thing you want when going out with a group of people is to choose a place that's really expensive, slow or that serves food that no one likes. You know what to expect from one of the chains.

 

[christiesplits]

One key aspect of their business model, under scrutiny:

Restaurant dress codes: Sexy outfits for female staff may be discriminatory
Could dress codes at Moxie’s, Earls, Jack Astor’s and Joey Restaurants violate human rights?

http://www.cbc.ca/news/business/marketplace-gender-specific-dress-codes-1.3474289

 

[ksun]

Restaurants like Joey's are Milestones are for young guys to impress their first date - the food is bland if not horrible but at least the place looks modern and trendy, which means the food is usually of the lowest value. I'd rather go for Wendy's than these two and keep wondering why people waste money there. Joeys for example offers from Sushi to Pizza, from Burger to Thai noodles. You can guess how great they chefs are.

 

[Filip]

One key aspect of their business model, under scrutiny:


http://www.cbc.ca/news/business/marketplace-gender-specific-dress-codes-1.3474289

I always wondered how this works.... A stripper obviously has a certain dress code... (or lack thereof) - one cannot be a stripper and modest at the same time. Wouldn't that contravene the code? Or, how about letting people decide where it's best to work for them given the required uniform. I've been to plenty of places where the male staff are jacked and wearing skin tight tshirts... Not that I'm complaining.

In regards to the western eateries.. As someone who works downtown, they're my go to for client lunches. There's something on the menu for everyone, and it doesn't offend. Ki is also another I like, but that's not western.

 

[AlvinofDiaspar]

I always wondered how this works.... A stripper obviously has a certain dress code... (or lack thereof) - one cannot be a stripper and modest at the same time. Wouldn't that contravene the code? Or, how about letting people decide where it's best to work for them given the required uniform. I've been to plenty of places where the male staff are jacked and wearing skin tight tshirts... Not that I'm complaining.

It might be one these things that you know is wrong when you see it - showing skin per se isn't the issue - requiring your workers to show skin beyond anything required for service delivery consistency with the style of your restaurant is (and the restaurant isn't a strip joint or Hooters - so unless it want to brand itself as such).

AoD

 

[Filip]

It might be one these things that you know is wrong when you see it - showing skin per se isn't the issue - requiring your workers to show skin beyond anything required for service delivery consistency with the style of your restaurant is (and the restaurant isn't a strip joint or Hooters - so unless it want to brand itself as such).

AoD

I know more about Moxie's, Joey's, etc than most people (many of my university friends worked there). They were pretty forward about what happens. They know they were hired because of their looks, one purposely chose to show her cleavage because she noticed tips go up depending on how low slung the shirt is...

They also told me the restaurants hire one token 'ugly' girl in case of a human rights contravention.

That is certainly wrong, but how do you police it?