THE story of Kasyapa.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
TRAVEL
Breathtaking castle in the sky
It’s no wonder that it is known as the eighth wonder of the World. Sigiriya, located about 250 kilometers north of Colombo in Sri Lanka is a remarkably well preserved historic site, dating back to fifth century AD. One has to see this breath-taking UN heritage site to believe it. I recently visited this fascinating place which has an equally fascinating story behind it.
During the period from 459 to 477 AD, Sri Lanka was ruled by a Buddhist King named Datusena. He reigned from the ancient capital of Anuradhapura. Datusena was an able administrator and his subjects were happy under his rule. However, in 477 AD, one of his sons from a non-royal consort, Prince Kasyapa, staged a palace coup with the help of the King’s nephew and army commander - Migara. Kasyapa then committed a horrendous deed in order to consolidate his position on the throne. He executed his father King Datusena. His half brother and the rightful heir to the throne - Prince Moggallana escaped and sought refuge in south India. This patricidal and regicidal actions of Kasyapa was very much resented by the subjects and the influential Buddhist monks. As a result, King Kasyapa never felt secure in Anuradhapura.
He then chose a spectacular rock formation (a monadnock) about 70 kilometers south of Anuradhapura in a thickly forested area to build an impregnable rock fortress. This massive rock with sheer perpendicular sides raises about 200 meters from the surrounding plain. On top of the rock is a plateau, which covers an area of about four acres. Kasyapa named his new rock fortress ‘Simha-giri’ or Lion Mountain.
Over a period of eight years Kasyapa and his master builders transformed this rock feature and the surrounding land. For security two large moats were constructed round the rock citadel, and these were filled with deadly crocodiles. At the main entrance to the rock complex he built elaborate gardens with highly aesthetic landscaping.
The design and construction were of very high quality. There were pleasure gardens, rock gardens, water fountains, ponds and terrace gardens. One of the astonishing features of this place is the row of water fountains, which were discovered a few years ago when the Sri Lankan archeologists were carrying out excavations. Apparently a blockage in one of the underground pipes got cleared and the fountains started working after 1500 years!
King Kasyapa had 300 wives, consorts and courtesans! He built a palace on top of the rock, and all his women were also accommodated in this castle in the sky. The buildings were well planned and neatly laid out on top of the rock. A bathing pond carved out of the rock atop this citadel is still in good condition.
It is mind-boggling how King Kasyapa, his women and others climbed to the top of this rock fortress on a regular basis. There are steps carved on the rock itself which are remnants of elaborate brick masonry constructions. The entrance to the citadel was fashioned like the head of a lion with the mouth open. Only the paws of the lion exist today.
Niches were carved into the rock face to accommodate guards during both day and night. The floor of these cubbyholes sloped outwards, and if a guard fell asleep he would plunge hundreds of feet down to his death. Our guide told us that this was the ‘natural punishment’ for not being alert!
The British rediscovered this site in the early 19th century. After extensive excavations they built metal staircases and steps which are still used to get to the top of the rock. These steel staircases are themselves an engineering marvel.
There is a set of spiral staircase, which takes one to the sheer rock surface where paintings of ‘apsaras’ could be viewed. It is quite an experience going up and down the more than 100-year old spiral staircases. For a reasonably fit person it takes about 45 minutes to reach the top. The climb is worth the effort for the spectacular view from the summit. One can only imagine and wonder at the grandeur of the place during the zenith of King Kasyapa’s rule, fifteen centuries ago.
King Kasyapa ruled for 18 years. In 495 AD the crown Prince Moggallana returned to Sri Lanka with an army of Tamils from the Chola Empire. He laid siege to Sigiriya and Kasyapa’s army was routed. Kasyapa got trapped in his own citadel. Nowhere to escape he ultimately took his own life. On assuming the throne, King Moggallana gave the Sigiriya rock complex to the Buddhist monks to be used as a monastery. These austere monks chipped away and removed most of the concupiscent frescos on the rock faces and the caves. Some of the left over rock paintings gives a glimpse of the high quality of artistic skills that was prevalent during that period of time.
FACT FILE
Sigiriya is about five hours drive from Colombo. There are a number of good hotels. From Sigiriya it is convenient to travel to other historic places such as Anuradhapura, Dambulla and Polonnaruva.